have had great enjoyment working out a process to produce these yokes
and king pin assemblies in a consistent and true form. After much trial
and error, we have built a streamlined setup that has been static tested
to beyond the strength of the spring with no cracks, bending or
We are still working out a standard color, with a few that worked out to
be chromated, some conventional paint, and some a powder coated bronze
that looks to be a bit brown but has an excellent tough finish. We will
be working with opinions of the builders for the final color, but an
excellent hammered gun metal grey has shown itself to be a leading
contender. After all, the tail wheels are always dirty from grease and
ramp dirt, but we like them to look great when cleaned up too.
pins and bushings. This is another time consuming job if you're making
just one or two parts. These parts are always chromated, baked and kept
These are top caps for king pins,
Chromated, baked and kept on hand. These caps should never bind with the
steer arm/locking pin assembly. They are held in place with a loc-tite
blue and a 5/16's fine AN bolt.
king pin bushings. A very thin, but very important piece to keep proper
tension to the tail wheel king pin. Again, hard to make if you're
setting up for just one bushing. With our CNC controlled production,
even 5-10 years from now these parts will go right in if ever needed.
Nothing that would have to ever be fixed in the back country, but nice
to know that US Postal Service can deliver in a letter the few parts you
might ever have to replace.
is what the cam body looks like before welding. We do a few things
differently today, after working through some fixture process steps.
This gives a good idea on the quality control of the parts we have. The
cam top is made right into the part. NO welding of it for a true-to-base
alignment. Again, 4130 N used throughout these parts.
cam bodies with bearings and bushing in place. These have all been
chromated/baked and ready for assembly.
Welding the hardest part, the
deep pockets in the cam body base. Requires good fixtures, steady hands,
and patience to let the fill rod build, meld and keep from burning
is a close up the welds on the yoke, side plates of yoke, and deep
pockets of the main cam body.
All the main parts together; please note the wear parts: locking pin,
bushing, bearing and perhaps the locking pin spring. Replacement package
for all would cost less than $29. I have had many request for various
parts on a separate basis, though this sounds simple, it really is not.
These parts are made to always fit my tail wheel and to my tolerance
standards. So if one was to make a cam body and was off just .01 of an
inch from the distance required for my king pin, it would throw
everything else off. This would even include the locking pin, if the
locking pin body had a different dimension of slot cut into it. My yokes
are made to handle the wheel assembly as described in Bob Barrows'
Ready for assembly. It's always
great when things come together nicely.